To a Long Steep Hill

 There was supposed to be a parade of ships yesterday, but there was quite a big storm and it was correctly cancelled.  Instead, the five square-rigged vessels sneak out one by one this morning with bare poles.  We get glimpses using the binoculars from Cliff Road, which is handily close to the B & B. Chris is developing a nasty cough and cold, but we take the ferry to St Mawes, get sandwiches and proceed on by a second ferry across the creek to Place.  The idea is to put all this water behind us in case our next visit comes in winter when ferries aren't running.  Onwards to Portscatho and Fowey! 

 Yesterday we checked that the Helford ferry runs to 20.30, and not 17.00 as stated on the website.  So we have booked a taxi (old friends Telstar) to take us back to Porthallow.  It's the halfway point where we finished last March. It's the 35 bus again to Helford Passage.  Ferry is prompt, £9.00 pp return and Telstar is waiting for us in the car park across in Helford.  We notice a nice looking cafe in the car park.  Forecast was for another hot day, but this is Cornwall and local conditions prevail.  There's a bit of a sea fret with low cloud and it's distinctly chilly on Porthallow Beach.  Ever-helpful chap from Telstar warns us that there is a broken bridge with huge inland detours.  He says it's possible to just walk round the bridge on the beach and to ignore the detours.  We thank him and pay £25.00 for the trip.  We get take-away coffees from the quirky beach cafe and set out up the cliff.  I regret wearing shorts. He'...

 We are in Falmouth.  As well as doing a little bit of the Path, we are here to see the Tall Ships and hang out with daughter Kathy and family. WE are booked into a splendid B & B called The Red House on Melvill Road near Falmouth Town Station.  Although here for a week, I am only writing the days we actually progressed on the Path. So, today we catch the 35 bus from the Moor to Helford Passage and walk back to Falmouth.  It's a beautiful day and this is quite a gentle stretch, although a bit longer than we thought.  There's no phone signal on the path (a common problem) and we manage to lose each other while I am stopped as I try to listen to the women's football world cup.  Later discovered they beat Australia 3 - 1. Ho! We have a late sandwich lunch at Maenporth.  Beach is packed but looks nice.  We get to the Red House at 17.00, both knackered after walking 10.5 miles. 

 Friday 17th March Time to go home.  It hasn't been our most productive session. I thought we would at least get to the Helford River, maybe even Falmouth.  We are definitely slowing down.  At least we have hit two important milestones: The Lizard and the Halfway.  I wonder if we will ever finish. 

  Thursday 16 th I collect pasties ordered from the village shop.   Ann’s pasties are delicious.   Possibly the best ever, beating even St Agnes bakery. It rains continuously.   We drive to Newlyn for supper at The Mackerel Sky.   Delicious as ever, and we get seating inside.   I had red mullet.   Chis had hake.   Afterwards we went to the Newlyn Film House to watch ‘Luther’.

  Wednesday 15 th It turns out that Lynette lives next door.   She sends her husband, Andy to fix the TV.  T heir TV wasn’t working either.   Satellite link problem.   He gets it going quickly.   We drive to Porthoustock to walk to Porthallow.   Weather terrible.   The walk is entirely inland. Porthallow is another important milestone because it is exactly halfway.   Halfway! Only!   It seems like we have been doing this forever.   Our current rather slow rate is 8 miles a day.   Do the math.   We have 75 walking days ahead.   Generously assuming three visits to Cornwall a year with 30 walking days, we might get to Poole in 2027.   I will be 83.                                                                   ...

  Tuesday 14 th Surprise! It’s a beautiful day. We set out in the opposite direction towards St Keverne.   The path is boggy after all the rain.   St Keverne is slightly inland, but there is a bus which can take us back to Coverack.   We get there by lunch time and eat our sandwiches on a bench outside the church.   We go into The Three Tuns and get coffee which we drink sitting outside in the sunshine.   If only the weather was always like this.   We visit the church which is very old and interesting.   In the graveyard is a mass grave of passengers and crew from the SS Mohegan which sank on the Manacles in 1898 with the loss of 106 lives.   The ship struck the rocks as passengers were sitting down to dinner. The wreck inspired the noted Scottish poet William McGonagall.  Here is a flavour of his verse: And on board there were 133 passengers and crew, And each one happier than another seemingly to view; When suddenly the ship receiv...