Wednesday 21 July This is our last day of walking. Port Gaverne to Rock (over the estuary from Padstow). It is 12 ½ miles. I persuade Chris that most of the walking will be easy and she agrees to give it a go. Debbie says the temperature reached 30 degrees yesterday, and it will be hotter today. We park up in Rock and Debbie takes us to Port Isaac. It’s much easier to access and saves us a short walk. Every little is going to count today. To start with, it’s the usual up and down, and Chris looks sceptical. It is extremely hot. Looking down, the sea is a mill pond and crystal clear. We could be at Loutro. The first little place to reach is Port Quin. There is nothing there except a water tap, which we use. There is a surfing base with a passive aggressive sign saying they are not a tourist information point and if you want a coffee, go back to Port Isaac. We trundle on...
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By: Mike
To a Long Steep Hill
Tuesday 20 th July Even hotter today, and we drive to Port Gaverne. We try hard to park but it is impossible, so we end up in the Port Isaac car park. There is a friendly shop/cafĂ© where we get coffee, and sit outside eating our packed breakfast. Port Gaverne Then it’s down the hill to wait for Debbie. Standing in the shade I get talking to a man who is about to join a ‘coasteering’ expedition. This is a sport where you scramble along the rocks on the bottom of the cliffs, wearing wet suit, buoyancy aid and helmet, preferably with an experienced guide. It sounds mad, but apparently, it’s a recognised and fast-growing sport with a very low cas...
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By: Mike
To a Long Steep Hill
Monday 19 th July Weather is still very hot. 26 degrees. Today it’s Boscastle to Tintagel. Quite short only four and a half miles. At this rate we probably won’t make it all the way to Padstow. The plan today is to park the car in Tintagel using the magic app, then take the bus back to Boscastle. No taxis! Once again, we slip out of the hotel early, but this time we have ordered a packed breakfast from the hotel. Tintagel is that bit further to drive, but we get there in good time for the bus, and we are back in Boscastle by soon after 09.00. We get coffee at the baker’s, and find a shady spot to eat our breakfast. Then it’s over the river and up the first cliff. We go past an area called ‘The Stiches’ an interesting survival of mediaeval strip farming. At our midday stop, we realise we are going to be at Tintagel by lunch time, and decide that we might as well soldier on to Trebarwith. I...
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By: Mike
To a Long Steep Hill
Maggie (L) and Chris (R) at Bistro Pierre in Royal William Yard, Plymouth Sunday 18 th July Coffee on the balcony with a friend of Derek and Maggie called Trevor. He is local in the Cotswolds but also has a place here. There’s gentle pressure from D & M for us to follow suit. We pop over to Royal William Yard. It is a magnificent collection of neoclassical buildings which were the victualling hub for the Royal Navy in its pomp. D & M nearly bought here. It’s now being converted into flats and restaurants. All most agreeable, but a lot more expensive than where they are. We have a long lunch in the open air at Bistro Pierre. Excellent. I had roast chicken. Then it’s back to the Soap St flat in time to see the Brittany ferry to Santander leaving. We say our goodbyes and drive back to Bude, crossing the Tamar Bridg...
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By: Mike
To a Long Steep Hill
Saturday 17 th July It’s another scorcher. We set out for a stroll up to the Hoe. It’s busy with SailGP. This is a sailing event involving large ultra-fast catamarans. They rise out of the water on fins and go up to 60 mph. There is a large fan zone enclosure for people to watch, and loud-speaker commentary. Thousands are also just sitting on the grass. I am interested in the various war-memorials and monuments. Back at the flat, we overlook the harbour where the yachts have their base. We get a ring-side view of the yachts being craned into the water, and their crews going aboard. They have a crew of five, including a helmsman and a grinder. I think he is the guy who winches in the huge mainsail as they go about. The other three are mainly there to skip from side to side and balance the boat. At least that’s what I think. We don’t get much of a view of the races themselves, eve...
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By: Mike
To a Long Steep Hill
Friday 16 th July That’s it for this week. Today we are driving to Plymouth for a weekend of R & R with Derek and Maggie. They have sold up in Spain and bought a holiday flat in the Ocean City. We laze. Earned it, haven’t we. We go for a proper swim in the Bude sea water pool. It is huge, run by a charity and free. What’s not to like? Later we drive to Plymouth. We avoid the Tamar Bridge because of warnings about heavy holiday traffic and our satnav takes us on a convoluted route to enter the city from the east. The weather is still hot and sunny and we have supper on Derek and Maggie’s balcony overlooking the harbour.
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By: Mike
To a Long Steep Hill
Thursday 15 th July In our convoluted logistics, there’s another variation, and this time, let’s hope it works. We learn our lesson from yesterday and realise that the hotel 08.30 breakfast is too late for us, so we creep out early and drive to our next destination – Boscastle. We park up and wait for the 95 bus. Worth mentioning at this stage that I have downloaded the brilliant Cornwall CC parking app. Amazing – it’s totally user friendly. No more fumbling for coins or trying to phone the dreaded Ringo. You just enter the code for the car park you are going to and click the time you need to be there and ping. That’s it. As you can guess, we are not total fans of the Cornwall offer to tourists, but this wins a triple gold star. And the bus is on time and wafts us quickly back to Crackington where we have a nice breakfast in the cafĂ©. But what’s this? Our three Yorkshire friends are emerging from the pub. ...