To a Long Steep Hill

We were snug in our little tent.  The secret is a rug between the air bed and the sleeping bag. They always say the cold rises up underneath you.  The only problem - unique I suppose to us oldies - is having to get up in the middle of the night to visit the er 'shower block'.  We did insist on pitching our tent close by, but you can't wriggle out of your sleeping bag, never mind the Ghost 3 tent, without waking the other occupant.  And don't even think about the chaos of doing it in the rain.  Fortunately the night was reasonably dry and we were both able to climb back in and enjoy the rest of the night. We cooked up tea and coffee on our mini gas stove, packed up as the rain began again,and headed to the Combe Martin Deli for a proper full English.  We thought we deserved it. I can't end without a shout out for Newberry Valley.  Lovely people. Immaculate facilities. Pretty site.  I bumped into Edward, a fellow camper. Me: "How does this plac...

These boots are made for walking - but for how much longer?  In the deluge above Hunter's Inn I felt dampness under my feet for the first time.  When I took the boots off that night my socks were damp and there was a definite gap opening up between the sole and the upper. Poor old boots.  They have carried me many many miles with never a single blister. They did Offa's Dyke path with Sarah - all those stiles.  And all those mountains in Greece. Pyramidos, Gingelos, Profitas Ilias and the rest. I bought them in a rush leaving the Opera House after work one afternoon on my way to Paddington for the Chepstow train.  The first Offas Dyke walking diary is dated April 1996, so the boots are 23 years old.  They were made by Meindl of  Kirchanschöring in Bavaria.  They claim to have started making boots in 1683. Is this an endorsement?  Make your own mind up.

Breakfast at Hunter's Inn is 'spiffing' according to Chris and she's not wrong.  Perfectly poached eggs for her and scrambled with smoked salmon for me. We are watched by the hotel's resident peacocks. At nine O'clock sharp we are on our way again. Well spotted - I've changed the font. Arial.  What do you think?  I like it. This section is high and lonely and looming ahead of us is The Great Hangman - the highest point on the entire SWCP. We are soon out of the wooded valley and climbing.  The rain ain't steady, but the squalls are soon crowding in.  Look at the rainbow over the sea. Here's Chris on one of many almost vertical sections Not surprisingly we don't meet many other walkers. There are two Americans on their way to Lee Abbey, which we passed yesterday soon after Lynmouth and in the valley just before the Hangman ascent we come across a small party out for the day from Combe Martin who are turning back because of the sto...

The Rhenish Tower at Lynmouth Harbour. It's 08.00 at Starbuck's on Salisbury Plain and we have a decision to make.  But first, we need to get stuck into the American coffee emporium's take on the Full English - a warmed croissant containing a little cheese and ham.  The coffee is OK and plentiful. The plan was to spend the first night in a warm bed at Hunter's Inn, about six miles along the Path from Lynmouth and then to camp for the following two nights at Combe Martin, with a combination of taxis to allow us to walk the following two days unencumbered by our gear. But it's raining.  And the forecast for tomorrow night is utterly dire.  We are hardy, of course we are, but we really really do not fancy erecting our little tent in a storm.  Discretion, when you get past the age of sixty is always the better part of valour.  Using  my mobile phone we book ourselves into The Bath Hotel, Lynmouth for Saturday night. "OK, but what about Sunday" say I...

Holing up in the Bath Hotel last night was a good call.  It was good to cuddle up in a warm hotel bed as the rain beat down outside. As we got back into the car, parked next to the river Lyn we watched the roaring torrent which all the rains have created. I wonder if residents still think of the 1952 flood which buried the village with the loss of 34 lives. The stretch of coast path between Combe Martin and Ilfracombe is very different.  The high cliffs of the Somerset-Devon border have been left behind and we are in a new landscape of coves, caravans and boat moorings. It's a bit of a slog, frankly, with stretches where you have to walk along the main road. The rain has stopped but the wind!  In the exposed stretches it is exhausting, coming straight at us from the west. We were pretty knackered by the time we got to the top of Hillsborough, overlooking Ilfracombe Harbour.  The harbour at Ilfracombe We went into The Dolphin restaurant on the quay and had ...

So, we are off tomorrow on the second section of our South West Coast Path Walk - Lynmouth to Combe Martin. Weather forecast is for rain. And I have developed a knee problem.  My lovely physio Juls Mackie says I should be OK.  If you live in the Teddington area and you have aches and pains - you can find her at  http://www.tw1physiotherapy.com/index.php/juls-mackie/ She specialises in sports injuries.  Perfect for a wonky knee.  But just in case ....

Tiny, isn't it?  The picture is taken at The Byline/Curious Arts Festival which we attended 23-24 August and spent two nights in the tent.  We were at the festival because my choir (MJs Choirs) was performing. The weekend was very warm - but the nights were extremely chilly. It's a Ghost 3 ultra lightweight tent from Mountain Hardware.  The '3' is telling you that the tent is meant for three people.  Comfy for two at a stretch, but three?  Only sardines need apply.  Not cheap.  You won't get away with less than £400.  Not your average festival bivvy. But it is extraordinarily light. Oh and we've also bought lightweight sleeping bags.  Three seasons Helium 250 from Mountain Equipment.  £150 each. I know! SWCP tranche two is now booked for the weekend of 27 September. Setting out from Lynmouth.  We'll be on the path for three days.  First night in the Hunters Inn then two nights in the Ghost.