Tuesday 8th March

 


I had scrambled eggs and smoked salmon for breakfast – excellent, but the coffee is no better than it was in the old days.  Breakfast is served in the restaurant.  The vibe is very different. When I worked here as a waiter, the space was set out as a traditional dining room with table cloths and a carpet. The Irish headwaiter wore traditional black uniform with bow tie.  We were all also dressed as traditional hotel waiters.  A middle-aged professional waiting couple, she Polish, he Turkish, and three students comprised the staff.  The third student was a likely lad from Manchester.  He became very friendly with the daughter of one holidaying couple. Meeting a family from the hotel on the beach one afternoon, I asked if a holiday at St Agnes wasn’t rather dull.  The mum replied ‘It will come to you, one day’.

We drove to Perranporth and put the car in the long stay.  After buying rolls for lunch, we get the U1A to Newquay, believing that it is going to go via Crantock, where we plan to resume our walk and avoid the streets of Newquay and a tricky crossing of the river Gannel.  The driver tells us that, in fact, he doesn’t divert to Crantock.  Helpfully, he puts us down outside Morrisons and tells us to cross the road and get the 85 back to Crantock.  It’s a 45-minute wait and it is raining.  Spirits droop.  However, when we finally hit the SWCP above Crantock beach, the rain stops and the weather brightens.  We take our first steps along the dunes at 11.00.  All is well until we get to Holywell, when the rain starts again.  It is a sharp shower, but we spy a pub, The Gull’s Rock.  Unfortunately, it is closed – like a lot of places at this time of year.  They have a nice covered veranda.  We eat our rolls and listen to the rain drumming on the plastic roof above our heads.  Once again, we are lucky.  As we finish lunch, the weather clears, and we proceed in sunshine around the army range at Penhale Camp.  The place has fierce ‘keep out’ signs, but it is deserted and looks as though it is abandoned.  The perimeter fence has been trampled down.  We descend on to the sands. The tide is out and we have a nice sunny walk to Perranporth. 

To celebrate the successful conclusion of our first day we are in search of a cup of tea.  We count ten cafes in Perranporth High Street.  It’s only 4.30 but not a single one is open.  Fortunately, the Tywarnhale pub obliges.  We order a (very) large pot.

We have booked a table in the bar at Driftwood Spars.  I ordered chicken supreme, and Chris had hake.  Food is excellent.  A good day – but there is a problem in the morning.

            Beautiful SWCP waymark carved in stone at the entrance to Perranporth beach

                                                    Chris on Perranporth Beach

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