The lighthouse at Hartland Point
But first, we have to face the 10 ¼ miles from Clovelly back
to Hartland Quay. The weather is
blustery and rain threatens. The stiff
breeze is in our faces, and there are at least four steep coombes to navigate.
Our taxi from Number Six in Bideford is right on time. We’ve checked out the previous evening so we
are good to go at 08.45. £110 for b & b, £42.45 for dinner and drinks. Our
driver is a familiar face. She picked us
up from the RHS Gardens at Rosemore last time.
At Clovelly, I make a stupid mistake. I miss the trailhead and we go charging down
a steep road, only to trudge all the way back up. I kick myself for this. It means five ‘ups and downs’ for the day and
an unnecessary waste of our limited energy.
The morning is mainly through woods. It rains a bit but not too much, and by lunch
time we have negotiated two of the valleys/coombes/ chines. We find a bench
with a fabulous view and get to work on mini-scotch eggs, cherry tomatoes and
falafels which I got at Waitrose on Wednesday, knowing we would be miles from
any shopping or hostelry.
One of the coombes we had to traverse between Clovelly and Hartland Quay
The worst is to come, though. The weather gets better and is sunny though
windy, but the going gets a lot tougher.
By the top of the final chine I am exhausted. We limp down to Hartland Quay, where we
gratefully down cups of tea and creep into the car for the drive to Morwenstow.
The Bush Inn is busy, but they are expecting us and we flop
into our room. It’s nice, but full of
flies, and we wack about ten before I collapse into the bath.
Emerging in a towel I say:
“The forecast tomorrow is terrible and I am knackered. What would you say if I propose that we don’t
walk?” She goes: “Well I was thinking the same”
Me: “So it’s agreed then”.
We are not in a race and we have the rest of our (active) lives to do
this.
Then it’s down to the bar for another pint and supper. Getting dressed first, obviously. It’s a pint of Tribute for me and a Malbec
for Chris, followed by Korean Pork (me), Romanesco Broccoli (Chris), and a
delicious but naughty apple crumble and clotted cream with two spoons.
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